Scotchguard Free Furniture

At Easton Upholstery we no longer participate in Scotchguard brand protector fabric spray.

Most manufacturers, including vendors that we get our supplies from, will no longer warranty fabric if Scotchguard is requested by the customer. Suppliers are finding that it is actually causing defects to the fabric. Considering it is a chemical, it can be harmful to children and pets if chewed or ingested. Also, it is highly flammable, and has a strong scent that will linger on your furniture for quite some time.

Always remember to research before making purchases!

Fabric vs. Leather

Deciding between leather and fabric can be a tough decision, as both have great qualities. Here are some facts to help you weigh out the pros and the cons of each kind to see what would work best for you.

Leather:

Pros-
  • Cool in the summer
  • Mostly water repellant; resistant to most liquids
  • Easy to manage; can be quickly cleaned by simply wiping with a dry or damp cloth
  • Outlasts fabric and pleather (synthetic leather)
  • Looks appealing to the eye
Cons-
  • Cool in the winter
  • More costly than fabric
  • Colors are limited; no patterns are available
  • Leather can fade or dry out and crack if not cared for properly
  • Leather cannot be repaired if torn or ripped

Fabric:

Pros-
  • Colors, patterns, and weave of the fabric are almost limitless
  • Warm in the winter
  • More options available to match with décor
  • Cost less than leather
Cons-
  • Not always easy to clean
  • Must follow cleaning procedures to prevent ruining the fabric
  • Warm in the summer
  • Can be tough deciding between all of the different fabrics available
  • Cannot be repaired if torn or ripped

It’s All About The Foam!

 Of course everyone enjoys picking out the fabric for their new pieces of furniture, but choosing the right foam is actually one of the most important decisions. You need a couch or chair that will be perfect for you, so you can enjoy watching that special football game or your favorite TV show comfortably. Polyurethane is our standard type of foam; keep in mind that there are other types and different densities.

Listed below is a checklist of characteristics that are offered with Polyurethane foam. Please note – characteristics do not apply to all of the types of foam.

Easton Upholstery foam

Polyurethane Foam:

  • High, medium, & soft densities
  • Light-weight
  • Cushioning
  • Flexibility
  • Mildew-resistant
  • Resiliency
  • Fire retardant
  • Insulation
  • Compressible

Stop by the shop during our regular business hours or call with any questions that you may have.

At Easton Upholstery, customer satisfaction is our goal!

We Use Synthetic Webbing

 
“If a frame of a chair or sofa is the skeleton, webbings are the muscles. They give furniture its tautness, its memory, and its underlying shape; if they’re not right, nothing built on top of them will be either.”- Jamie Swedberg via upholsteryjournalmag.com
 

Why use synthetic webbing?

  • Synthetic webbing is known to hold its shape, which is why it lasts much longer than natural webbing.
  • Synthetic webbing is stronger than natural webbing, as it never dries out.
  • It is a smooth, clean woven material that is odorless and dust free
  • Easy to work with
  • Results in chair being lighter and less bulky, since it will not require springs
  • Mildew resistant

At Easton Upholstery we guarantee quality made furniture.

*Ask about our 3 year warranty with purchase!*

We’re Pet Proof!

Pet Blog

Has your cat or dog ever chewed, scratched, or urinated on your furniture? Well, there is no need to worry; you have options, and we are here to help! Reupholstering your furniture is the perfect way to hang on to old memories, yet still have a new and improved piece to enjoy and love.

Everyone wants the luxury of having comfortable and beautiful furnishings in their home. Not only for your own use, but also for when you have company over. This is why there is no need to worry when your pet “ruins” your furniture; nothing is ever ruined when it comes to Easton Upholstery! We take the time to understand our customers’ wants and needs to quickly and efficiently start the process of fixing your best and favorite pieces. Whatever it is that you desire, we can make it happen!

We will walk you through, step by step, to help you make the right decision for the choice of fabric and foam that will fit your needs. We have thousands of varieties of fabric, and different foam densities to assure the perfect comfort level that works for you.

So why wait? Save the frustration of trying to repair pet damage yourself, and let us do the work for you.

Trust us, the upholstering professionals!

UPHOLSTERING METHODS – COILS

How to retie coil springs
Coil springs are tied down firmly across their tops to prevent them from slipping sideways out of position. They should be tied to uniform height so that each spring’s upward expansion is controlled. Before tying, springs usually stand about 1 1/2 in. (3.5cm) above the “normal” height. Firm springs are often tied at freestanding height (1 1/2 in. above normal height). Medium springs are generally tied 1 in. (2.5cm) below normal height and soft springs 2 in. below normal height.

Springs lose resiliency when compressed by tying. Extra height above the frame increases the resiliency of the springs. In seats, tops of springs, after tying, should be a minimum 3 in. (7.5cm) above the frame. This permits them to be depressed without taking up all slack in the spring twine.

Seat springs may be tied to form round or flat tops according to need or preference. Single sets of springs used without cushions are usually tied with a round contour for appearance and comfort. Flat-shaped tops are used particularly when two sets of springs or a removable cushion is used. For flat seats, return tie is fastened to the third coil from the top.

Use upholsterer's hammer to drive tacks

Round Seats.

The two-way (four knot) tie is often used to fasten round seats. Each row of springs is tied lengthwise and then crosswise. Each row uses a separate piece of spring twine. To estimate twine length, measure the distance across the frame lengthwise and crosswise. Double each measurement and allow 12 in. (30cm) extra length for knots. With scissors, cut enough pieces of spring twine for each row of springs.

Using an upholsterer’s hammer, drive two No. 12 tacks into the frame opposite the center of each row of springs at either end. Space the tacks 1/2 in (12mm) apart and drive them only halfway into the frame.

Clove hitch knot
Form a clove hitch knot at one end of spring twine piece. Loop the knot around two of the partially driven tacks. Then drive the tacks tightly into the frame against the knot.
Knots for spring tying
How to make three types of knots used in tying twine to springs. A- Steps for making clove spring knot. B- Procedure for overhand knot. C- Making the simple loop.Depress the edge of the first spring (nearest double tack) to the desired height for a round seat. Pull the spring twine tightly around its top coil and make a clove spring knot or an overhand knot.

tighten twine
Then pull the twine taut to the opposite side of the spring and tie another knot. Tie all the springs in the same way.
fasten crosswise
Fastening springs crosswise. Drive two No. 12 tacks into the frame opposite the center of each row of springs at each side. Then fasten the twine crosswise in the same way as lengthwise. Shape and tie the springs crosswise by the same method as was used lengthwise.
8 way spring tie
The four-way (eight knot) tie is sometimes used as extra support to hold coil springs. This method employs diagonal spring twines in the same way that lengthwise and crosswise twine pieces are used in the two-way (four knot) tie method. Clove hitch or overhand knots are tied around each spring and intersecting twine.

Springs for flat seat with return twine.

The two-way (four knot) tie is generally used to fasten flat seats. The procedure is similar to tying round seats.

Measure the distance across the frame lengthwise and crosswise. Double each measurement and allow 24 in. (61cm) extra length for knots and return twines. With scissors, cut the pieces of spring twine needed.

Fasten springs lengthwise. Using an upholsterer’s hammer, drive two No. 12 tacks partway into the frame opposite center of each row of springs at both ends. This is the same procedure used with the round seat. Leave about 6 in. (15cm) of loose end on each piece of twine for tie back. Form a clove hitch knot, loop it around two of the partially driven tacks. Then drive the tacks tightly against the knot.

compress spring
Wrap long end of the twine around the opposite side of the spring. Then compress the spring to the height you want and form a clove hitch knot.
tie spring
Fasten the loose (short) end of the twine to the first side of the spring (one nearest double tack). Attach it to the second spiral from the top. Use a clove hitch or overhand knot.
pull twine
Pull the twine taunt to the next spring and wrap the twine around its nearest edge. Then compress the spring to the desired height and form a clove hitch or overhand knot. Continue tying the other springs in the same way. Fasten springs crosswise using the same method.
Copyright By The Goodheart-Willcox Company, Inc. (book no longer in print)

About Stacy Mfg.

stacy furniture mfgStacy Furniture Mfg. is our newest line that we offer Easton Upholstery.  As a family owned and operated business, we love the opportunity to work with another family owned and operated business.  We only sell the highest quality products and Stacy furniture definitely fits the requirements.

D.M. Stacy (Stacy Furniture Mfg.) is a manufacturer of fine living room furniture made in the heartland of furniture manufacturing, Pontotoc, Mississippi.  Since 1970, Stacy has strived to provide a quality product at a competitive price.   Stacy builds its own frames on site; oak is used at stress points for durability and strength.  Eight-gauge sinuous springs provide a firm yet comfortable sitting experience.  And high-resiliency seat foam offers soft yet durable seating.

 

Common spring types

Coil springs are cylindrical, hourglass-shaped metal springs that are generally sewn or clipped to a webbing base. Then the springs are tied to each other in eight different directions in a process called an eight-way hand-tie, in order to give them tension, order, and neatness.

Most upholsterers believe that this is the best way to create a stable, durable seat, because the coils distribute a person’s weight evenly.

“Generally, you’ll find it in antique furniture,” says Reg Gervais, vice president of George N. Jackson Ltd., Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. “There are also some customers, and certainly some upholsterers, that want to have the eight-way hand-tied coiled springs. I think it does provide a nicer cushion.”

Gervais says a thicker wire coil, such as an eight- or nine-gauge wire, provides optimal firmness. Placing coils close together adds consistency and support. However, Lanowski notes that most people want nine- or ten-gauge, depending on the firmness they prefer. There’s not a lot of difference between the gauges, he admits. Nine-gauge coils are arranged on jute webbing before being attached. Photo: Upholstery Shop Oregon Inc.Nine-gauge coils are arranged on jute webbing before being attached. Photo: Upholstery Shop Oregon Inc.Zig-zag thread pattern shows how coils are stitched to webbing. Photo: Upholstery Shop Oregon Inc.

The other most commonly used type of springs are zig-zag springs, also known as “no sag” or “sagless” springs. These S-shaped linear springs are available in pre-cut rolls, generally from eight-gauge to 11-gauge, and are attached to the frame with clips. They’re a common modern alternative to coils.

“You’d be hard-put to find a new piece with coils in it today,” says upholster Claudette Sandecki, former owner of Pioneer Upholstery in Thornhill, B.C., Canada. “It takes longer. They don’t want to do anything that takes any time anymore. Mostly it’s just flat springs.”

But not every modern piece can accommodate zig-zag springs. In the cheapest, flimsiest frames, you may be constrained to using only webbing because the frame would buckle under the spring tension.

“Some of it has to do with the frame,” Gervais says. “If you have a really, really high quality frame, you’re able to use stronger springs. The springs put a lot of stress on a frame.”

 

We DO NOT Re-Use Old Filling

I have been receiving a lot of calls when answering the phones. One of the questions we have been receiving lately is do we cover over old fabric? Or can you re-upholster our sofa and use our old foam? The answer to both questions is no. We do not cover over the old fabric and we do not and will not use the old foam. The reason for this is we would need to sterilize the foam and filling. To sterilize these items actually takes us more time because it is hard to get into every crevice of the furniture.   Also the product we use to sterilize the furniture is very expensive. Those are some of the health reasons why we do not use old filling and foam. Now from my experience on why do we not re-use old foam and filling is because we cannot give you that new foam feel and that nice look that new filling can give you. We have done this in the past and there is always an issue with the fabric wrinkling and cushions that do not hold their shape. We want to give you the best product that we can and we cannot give you the best product by re-using the old foam and filling.

How To Measure for New Cushions

This will explain the best way to record measurements to give you the perfect new cushion!
How-To-Measure-Tutorial

Picture 1

STEP 1:

 

Remove the old foam cushion from its cover. This is the single most important step in measuring, as you will actually measure the cover of your cushion, shown in Picture 1, not the old insert. Foam loses resilience over time, essentially “shrinking.” As foam cells break down from wear, they increasingly lose the ability to rebound to their original dimensions. Measuring the cover means your new foam insert is sure to fill the cushion snugly and comfortably.
How-To-Measure-Tutorial

Picture 2

STEP 2:

 

Sketch the shape of your cushion on a sheet of paper. Instead of recording a list of dimensions, match each one to the corresponding cushion section. This ensures you don’t accidentally swap values while entering them online. This is particularly important on non-rectangular cushions that have many measurement values (Picture 3 being an example).
How-To-Measure-Tutorial

Picture 3

STEP 3:

 

Placing the empty cover on a flat surface, measure each span of the cushion seam-to-seam, including cushion thickness/height. Seams are the stitching where top/bottom fabric panels meet the sides. In Picture 2, this is where plaid meets solid blue. On square or rectangular cushions, you’ll take three measurements. L-and T-Cushions will require additional measurements, as shown in Picture 3. (Again, when measuring, be sure the cover is empty.) Another tip is to always measure across the body of a cover, as tight stitching can make corners smaller than the cushion’s true dimensions.